"Düsseldorf is very intimate, diverse, creative, open and full of interested people."

Born in Poland, grew up in Essen, stranded in Berlin. Fashion designer Aleks Kurkowski has found her "most beautiful adopted home" in Düsseldorf and has arrived. She has lived and worked in Pempelfort for seven years and is deeply rooted in the local creative scene. Her label of the same name stands for minimalist, avant-garde clothing made from sustainable materials. You can tell that she actually wanted to be an architect from the clean cuts and industrial aesthetic of her showroom, which is a studio, store and gallery in one. In a former children's fashion store on Schlossstrasse, the 41-year-old fashion designer has created a creative space for sophisticated clothing and art. In addition to her own collection, she also displays high-quality accessories from partner labels and temporary exhibitions.

What fascinates you about fashion? What power does it have?
Personally, I don't like the word fashion and prefer to talk about clothes. Fashion involves a trend, but it's best not to follow trends, but rather to think about them: What do I like? What do I feel comfortable in? Clothing is a means of communication. It is the first impression we get of a person and therefore the first way of communicating. It expresses who someone is and what their values are. That's what makes clothing so powerful and therefore so valuable.

You originally wanted to become an architect. What made you decide to design clothes rather than houses as a fashion designer?
It takes years to complete a creative process in architecture, i.e. to create a finished building. That seemed too long to me. As a teenager, I saw a fashion show and was instantly fascinated by how you can combine individual pieces to create an outfit that looks fantastic. So I decided to study fashion design instead of architecture. At first I worked as an employed fashion designer in the industry, but when they said "we're moving production to China and instead of cotton we're making it in polyester", I realized that this didn't match my values of clothing. So I quit my job and started my own label in 2012.

You focus on fair production and sustainable materials. Why is this form of sustainability in fashion so important to you?
I only use natural materials such as wool, cotton and linen as well as vegetable-tanned leather for my clothes. I often use organic quality, my buttons are certified and I use fair trade production in my home country of Poland. Sustainability is important to me in all areas. You can't live 100 percent sustainably, that's utopian, but if you start thinking sustainably in one segment, it inevitably expands into other areas. If I'm already working in the fashion industry, then I see it as my duty to do so sustainably.

Can fashion be sustainable at all? And what aspects can consumers take into account?
First of all, when buying clothes, you should pay attention to the quality, avoid polyester if possible and check where exactly the clothes were produced. Another aspect is not to follow every trend, but to develop your own style that you follow for a long time. For example, buying a coat that is a little more expensive but lasts a long time and that you can always combine in different ways instead of buying a new outfit every week. That can go a long way.

How would you describe the style of your collection?
Minimalist. Strong. Androgynous. I appreciate the strength of masculine clothing and also implement it for women. I put a lot of emphasis on the cut. In the beginning, I was inspired by darkwear and designers like Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemeester. My collection was very avant-garde and completely black. When everything is black, the cut is the most important thing, it is not interrupted or distracted by colors or small details. Over time, my collection has become more classic and elegant. In addition to black, I also use white and grey and every season an accent color such as beige or olive green.

What does your creative process look like? As a fashion designer, how do you go about developing a collection?
I start with a basic pattern, with lines and numbers that inspire me. I take a very mathematical approach to my designs. Then I slowly develop details such as pockets and spacing, which I find interesting. I work a lot with cut-outs, lines, minimalist details and diagonal seams into which I insert pockets. A lot of things build on each other. The focus of my collection is on jackets, coats and pants because I find these products the most important. You can wear a great coat, perfectly tailored trousers and a simple shirt - and you'll look good. For a great outfit, you often only need one special piece as a highlight.

What tips would you give young fashion talents?
I advise them to try to work sustainably from the ground up. Ideally while they are still studying. It's not always easy and it's often expensive, but it's worth it. It's better to have fewer materials in the collection, but special ones. When I started out, there were hardly any avant-garde designers who also produced sustainably. But that's not a contradiction, because you can also sew a pattern from sustainable materials.

What inspires you?
I like to be inspired by the style and clothing in other countries. Spain is my favorite travel destination, I like the lightness, ease and nonchalance of the people there, who nevertheless always look very elegant.

You lived in Berlin for a while and then moved to the Rhine. What makes Düsseldorf's creative scene special and what distinguishes it from other cities?
The creative scene in Düsseldorf is very down-to-earth, which is absolutely positive. I previously lived in Berlin for four years and was very impressed by how warmly you are welcomed as a creative in Düsseldorf. People here want cooperation and community, everyone is included and no one is excluded. Everyone is included here. Düsseldorf is very intimate, diverse, creative, open and full of interested people. For me, Düsseldorf is the best place to live.

Which Düsseldorf designers should people know?
I really like fashion designer Marion Strehlow, who I often work with, as well as the jewelry designers from the "Hinter Indien" studio. The sustainable Düsseldorf bag label Sharokina, which I also stock in my store, is also great.

What makes Düsseldorf a fashion city?
From a business perspective, it's the Düsseldorf Fashion Days, where fashion is ordered professionally. In general, Königsallee, the city center and the old town offer a very pleasant shopping experience. You don't just shop in Düsseldorf, you go for a walk while shopping here. I invite all my friends and acquaintances to Düsseldorf to stroll through the stores and along Königsallee, which is a special and beautiful place.

What do you personally associate with the city?
Even as a young woman, I always saw myself in Düsseldorf with my own fashion store. My sister has her architect's office here and I often visited during my time in Berlin and simply fell in love with Düsseldorf. Mainly because there is so much creativity in such a small area. Berlin was too big for me to live in. In Düsseldorf, everything is within walking distance. That's what I've always wanted: an intimacy and yet great diversity.

Where can people meet you in Düsseldorf? Do you have a favorite neighborhood?
Of course, "my" neighborhood is Pempelfort - for living, working and hanging out. There are lots of other creative people hidden around my studio, plus the Hofgarten and the many museums ... I like to stay in my neighborhood and stroll through the stores and cafés on Nordstraße. I love sushi and like to eat Japanese food at Renya and Yabase. My favorite pub is Café a Gogo and, as an enthusiastic whiskey drinker, you can also meet me in the Liq Bar. Kaffee Privatrösterei in Schwerinstraße and Kwadrat are my absolute favorite cafés.

Is there a place in Düsseldorf that particularly impresses and inspires you?
What inspires me most is my walk from home to the Rhine: through the Hofgarten, past the Kunstpalast and the NRW Forum. I often go for walks there, even with my young daughter. These places inspire me because I find peace and quiet there and can be very thoughtful and creative.

alekskurkowski.com

Interview: Karolina Landowski
Photos: Kristina Fendesack