Bilker Straße - The grande dame

Where is it, the old and real Düsseldorf? The answer is simple: in the Carlstadt district of Düsseldorf. Here, for example, you will find the time-honored Bilker Straße, which runs south from the bustling Carlsplatz to Schwanenmarkt. It is the grande dame of the streets. Since 2020, Bilker Straße has also borne the title "Street of Romanticism and Revolution". In our collaboration with The Dorf The Streets, we reveal what this is all about, why Heine was originally called Harry and who lives to the right and left.

Cobblestones, historic gas lanterns and a tranquillity unusual for the Carlstadt district of Düsseldorf characterize the 331-metre-long Bilker Straße. Patrician houses, memorial plaques and old portals line the sidewalk. The last home of the composer couple Robert and Clara Schumann is located here, Heinrich Heine follows you wherever you go and the Institut Français also leaves its cultural mark. We owe the title "Street of Romanticism and Revolution" to Heine and the Schumanns. The Heinrich Heine Institute is located at Bilker Strasse 12-14 and the Schumann House at number 15. The Heinrich Heine Institute houses the world's only permanent exhibition on the life and work of the mocking poet, writer, political journalist and feuilletonist. What a fortunate coincidence to dedicate itself to the work and significance of his oeuvre in the place where the young Heine went to school. Originally called Harry Heine, he attended the Max School in the Carlstadt district of Düsseldorf for four years. Heine is said to have been very annoyed by the name Harry and later changed his name to Heinrich. So the legend goes.

There is not only anecdotal information to discover in the Heine House, but also changing special exhibitions with various literary, musical and cultural-historical themes. The institute offers guided tours of the exhibition and if you are lucky enough to meet Dr. Sabine Brenner-Wilczek, the director since 2009, you will learn all too human, not academic, facts about Heine's eventful and fateful life. The critical free spirit fled from censorship into exile in Paris, the "fatherland of champagne and the Marseillaise". The exhibition, curated with great attention to detail, provides insights into the inner life of the self-proclaimed "... last abdicated fable king of Romanticism". And real nerds can look forward to 70 percent of all known handwritten documents by Heinrich Heine. The Rhinelander's charisma did not fade with his death in 1856. Heine's confrontation with topics such as exile, homelessness and censorship still serve as a reminder today and give rise to discussion. Heine's memoirs, such as "The Book of Le Grand" and "Memoirs", incorporate local color and historical events, giving his hometown of Düsseldorf a small place in world literature.

Fun fact: Johannes Brahms was a babysitter for the Schumann children

History continues on Bilker Straße: from 1852 to 1855, the Schumann couple found suitable accommodation at number 15, which corresponded to Robert Schumann's elevated position as municipal music director. The Schumann family's former apartment extends over the first and second floors. Two of their five children were born here. In addition to everyday life and work, it became a popular meeting place for artist friends. Bettina von Arnim came and went, as did Johannes Brahms, who occasionally stood in as a babysitter. The music faded into the background when, for example, the children slid wildly down the banisters with him. And perhaps he occasionally sang his famous lullaby to them. In 2012, the Förderverein Schumann-Haus Düsseldorf e. V. was founded to support the expansion of the museum and the memorial site. Due to its historical significance, the entire building has been renovated, extended and converted into a Schumann Museum since 2018. The finished museum is also integrated into the overarching concept of the "Road of Romanticism and Revolution".

The tour continues to Bilker Straße 7-9, a building now known as the Palais Wittgenstein cultural center, which was built as part of the settlement of Carlstadt after 1790 and is now home to the Institut Français, the Düsseldorf Marionette Theater and the so-called Chamber Music Hall. The latter regularly hosts readings and concerts. The work of the Institut Français is worth mentioning. The friendly team of native speakers ensures that the language of the tricolor remains alive in Düsseldorf, the little Paris of the heart. Around 1,000 registrations a year are spread across classic language, group and individual courses for all levels. There are also free placement tests, language certificates and much more. The institute has an attractive library and an extensive media library. With a varied cultural program of film weeks, exhibitions, author readings and the Bibliobus, a French library on four wheels, the French language can not only be learned but also experienced. In addition to a large selection of French films and comics, children and young people can present their power moves and freezes in a breakdance project on the "piste de danc".

Another highlight is located in the inner courtyard of Palais Wittgenstein: the Düsseldorf Marionette Theater, which has been run by Anton Bachleitner for 42 years. The bronze marionette of Puck from A Midsummer Night's Dream attracts visitors to the theater from the street in front of the inner courtyard. In around 230 performances a year, there are sophisticated productions for adults and children from the age of eight. A visit to the theater is an experience that connects generations. It is often the grandparents who come with their grandchildren. The repertoire comprises 22 productions, including operas and modern musical theater, dramas and fairy tales. One focus is on adaptations of Michael Ende's works. The theater includes workshops and a theater fund with over 500 figures. Everything that can be seen on stage is created according to the designs of founder and artistic director Bachleitner.

So much for the romantic, revolutionary part of the grand dame of Carlstadt Düsseldorf. But Bilker Strasse is not just a historical find. After a few steps and a few glances into the windows of the stores and studios, it quickly becomes clear: this is where old meets new. You meet people who live their own version of romance and revolution. This implies oysters and champagne, light objects and design and much more. We'll tell you all about it in our second part about Bilker Strasse.

A contribution from The Dorf
The Dorf is primarily Tina Husemann and David Holtkamp, the founders of the charming online and offline magazine. Together with their team, they review the (Düssel)Dorf and provide us with contemporary culture, highlights and spots.
In the series "The Dorf The Streets", they show us the diversity of Düsseldorf through various streets.