"In Japanese food culture, slurping is very important. We also eat with our nose, so to speak, in order to fully absorb the aroma of the food." (Daisuke Klaus Ueda)

The Japanese restaurant Soba-An is located on Klosterstraße in the heart of Little Tokyo. What many people don't know: Tamaki Hamano, Germany's only female soba master, is at work here. These are buckwheat noodles that are elaborately made by hand. Alongside sushi and ramen, soba is one of Japan's national dishes. And outside of Little Tokyo, this masterful quality can only be found in Paris - at least in Europe. Tamaki Hamano told us in an interview what this Japanese specialty is all about, how it is prepared and the importance of soba and food culture in Japan. Supported and translated by Daisuke Klaus Ueda, Head Manager of Brickny Europe.

Tamaki, we're sitting in Soba-An, a restaurant on Klosterstraße, where you work as a soba master. It takes its name from the Japanese specialty that is prepared and served here: Soba. What is behind the national dish and what significance does it have in Japan?
Soba is noodles made mainly from buckwheat flour. Its origins lie in ancient China. Buckwheat was brought to Japan in the Nara period (the years from 710 to 794, author's note). In the beginning, it was mainly used as a medicinal herb. For us Japanese, soba therefore has a long tradition and is a national dish, similar to sushi and ramen. There are many ways to prepare it, different broths and different cooking times. The ratio of ground buckwheat to wheat flour can also vary.

Specializing in just one dish, like soba-an, is rather unusual in Europe, but common in Japanese food culture.
That's right. Part of Japanese culture is the pursuit of mastery, even in our cuisine. For us, soba is an art, the preparation method is never completely finished, there is no such thing as 100 percent. We therefore invest a lot of time in constantly improving and developing a dish. When Germans want to learn Japanese cooking, they first make sushi. Once they have learned that, they might cook ramen and then something else. There is no such thing in Japanese culture: when you do something here, you want to perfect it to the point of mastery.

You can buy ready-made soba noodles in the supermarket, similar to spaghetti. Do people in Japan often cook these ready-made products at home or do they prefer to go to a restaurant if they want to eat soba?
Of course you can also cook noodles from the supermarket, but we prefer to eat the masterpiece in a restaurant. Every soba master makes their own special noodles and prepares them differently. That's why there are so many different soba restaurants.

Is it common to make your own soba noodles in Japan?
No, it's too difficult. You have to invest a lot of time to learn how to make it properly. I've been making soba noodles myself for ten years.

When Soba-An opened a few years ago, it was the only restaurant of its kind in Germany - there was only one other restaurant in Europe at the time, in Paris. What's the situation now?
There are currently three restaurants in Paris and another one in Rath in Düsseldorf. But it's only open at lunchtime and the chef there used to be an apprentice at Soba-An.

You just said that it is very difficult to make soba noodles. How did it come about that you became a soba master?
I wanted to become a chef and could decide whether I wanted to learn how to make sushi, udon, ramen or soba. When I tried making soba noodles for the first time, I realized that I was getting better every time, so I wanted to develop my skills and become a master.

Where are you from in Japan? And how did you get into cooking?
I'm originally from Hokkaido. There is a school there where you can learn how to make soba. When I was 18 years old, I wanted to leave home and start my training as a master chef. To do this, I first spent three years learning how to make soba and graduated from school. In Japan, there is a competition for all cooking students, which I then took part in and won first prize. That was the sign for me that I should continue making soba.

What exactly do you learn at the soba school? Three years seems like a very long time to learn how to make noodles. What is special about making soba?
In addition to the pure preparation of the noodles, you learn how to present the process to guests in the restaurant; performance is very important in Japanese culture and is therefore part of the training. This takes four years in total, and in the last year you move to an external restaurant. I worked in Tokyo and learned how to prepare soba as a dish, perfecting the taste, consistency, side dishes and sauces. It is important to pay attention to the water, the humidity and the composition of the flour. You need all your senses to make the best noodles possible.

You talk about taste and side dishes. How is this Japanese specialty traditionally eaten?
There are actually only two ways to prepare the traditional soba dish: hot or cold noodles. They are served with a sauce made from dashi (a broth made from fish flakes and seaweed, author's note) and soy. The exact recipe remains my secret. (Laughs.) But we also serve our buckwheat noodles with meat and tempura, which is a traditional side dish.

Is there a particular specialty on the menu?
Our specialty is the noodles and how I, as a master, make them. The buckwheat flour is freshly ground every time.

You have been working at Klosterstraße for eight years. How did it come about that you came to Düsseldorf?
I was brought to Düsseldorf by the soba master Tajayuki Miyashita, who opened Soba-An at the time and still works here. There were many other opportunities for me, but I wanted to work abroad and I have known Ms. Miyashita for a long time, as she also comes from Hokkaido. So I chose Düsseldorf and this restaurant.

You are Germany's only female soba champion. What is it like in Japan? Are there many women who choose this profession?
There are hardly any female soba masters. Preparing soba is very hard physical work, which is easier for men. But I was so fascinated by this culture that it couldn't stop me from becoming a master. (Laughs.)

Are there any restaurants in Japan that are not run by chefs?
Of course. Many use a machine to prepare food, which is very popular in Japan. I work exclusively by hand. For me, the preparation process is meditation, even if it is very strenuous. In one cycle, which takes 40 minutes, I make about 20 portions. I can do that about four times a day.

Many guests obviously appreciate this, as the queue in front of the restaurant is often long. What is your target group?
Our clientele is very international. We have a lot of Japanese and German guests, as well as people from nearby countries. Many of them drive three hours from Holland or Belgium to Düsseldorf just to eat our traditionally made soba.

And what do you like to eat - and where do you go in Düsseldorf when you're not working?
When I'm working, I eat at a restaurant five times a week. Soba noodles are very healthy, low in fat, high in protein and vitamins - they're almost like vegetables. So when I have time off, I like to eat something unhealthy. My favorite dishes are sausages and hamburgers. (Laughs.) I sometimes go out to eat at Gut Jägerhof, they have really good steak. But I prefer to stay at home with my kittens, who I love to play with.

Interview: Katja Vaders
Photos: Kenny Tran/Visit Düsseldorf

Info

Soba-An was originally opened on Düsseldorf's Klosterstraße by Tajayuki Miyashita, who continues to work here as a master of his trade. The restaurant is now owned by Brickny Europe GmbH. The catering company has a total of 15 restaurants in Düsseldorf and represents the Takumi brand throughout Europe. The first Takumi ramen restaurant was opened on Immermannstraße in 2007 and there are now seven locations in the state capital alone. There are also 60 franchise companies in Germany as well as in Spain, Austria, Belgium, the Netherlands and Italy.
Brickny also operates other restaurant concepts in Düsseldorf such as Kushitei, Tonkatsu Gonta, 1oder8 and Ah-Un.
By the way: If you want to eat at Soba-An in the evening, you should reserve a table in advance.

brickny.com