Eating & going out |March 16, 2023

Enjoyment by the river

Interview with Philipp Elsbrock

You could call Philipp Elsbrock a returnee. As such, he naturally has a special perspective on Düsseldorf. The editor-in-chief of the gourmet section of "Falstaff" magazine initially studied general linguistics, Romance philology and philosophy at Düsseldorf's Heinrich Heine University before his interest in journalism led him to the Henri Nannen School in Hamburg. Two years in political journalism in Berlin followed before Elsbrock began writing about pleasure and the good life, first occasionally and then permanently: as editor of the Hamburg-based "Feinschmecker". The course was set for his later career at "Falstaff", based at Carlsplatz in Düsseldorf - so Elsbrock returned to the Rhine after ten years. In this interview, Elsbrock talks about the broad culinary spectrum of his adopted home, the new way of enjoying good wine in a relaxed atmosphere and his preference for life by the water.

You came back to the Rhine from the Elbe two years ago. How has your perception of Düsseldorf changed?

Well, I knew Düsseldorf from my student days. Back then, I spent a lot of time at the Zakk and experienced the last years of the Unique Club. A fellow student was married to a Korean woman, so I came into contact with Asian food culture even back then. Later, when I lived in Hamburg, I often went to ProWein in Düsseldorf. During the trade fair, I often spent evenings in top restaurants, which gave me the opportunity to explore the local gourmet scene. Nevertheless, I got to know the city all over again when I moved back here.

You've lived in Hamburg, Berlin and also spent a year in Salamanca, which is known for its rich tapas culture. Where do you go out in Düsseldorf?

There are a few places that I really like. The mix of relaxed atmosphere and high quality standards at Pink Pepper in the Steigenberger Parkhotel is remarkable in my eyes. Benjamin Kriegel is an outstanding chef, and thanks to his wife Ramona Kriegel, his gourmet cuisine meets excellent service here.

But you won't find sushi of the same quality as at Maruyasu in any other German city. The ramen bars and Korean restaurants are also fantastic. The food and wine at Bar Olio are also of outstanding quality. I recently discovered Rubens, an Austrian restaurant on Kaiserstraße that celebrates the culinary richness of Alpine cuisine. At Em Brass, you can get a main course for less than 20 euros, yet they have an exceptional wine list.

Casual fine drinking, so to speak?

Yes, this is a development that is also reflected elsewhere: Sebastian Georgi, the owner of Pizzeria NineOfive on Ackerstraße, used to be a sommelier in top gastronomy and recognized the signs of the times early on. He offers a casual concept in which Neapolitan pizza is flanked by high-quality wine.

And what do you think are the most interesting gastronomic innovations in Düsseldorf?

Bartender David Rippen has taken over the LiQ Bar, and the Berlin cult snack bar on Graf-Adolf-Platz in Düsseldorf has just been given a new lease of life by Fabian Veldmann and Toni Askitis. The two combine chips with good wine. As you can see, this principle is catching on everywhere.

Why has "Falstaff", whose headquarters are in Vienna, set up its German branch in Düsseldorf? What significance does the location have for the magazine?

There are probably several reasons for this. For one, the former "Falstaff" editor used to live in Düsseldorf. Then there is the international airport and the fact that you can quickly reach the wine-growing regions from here. But of course the local food scene also plays a role. The publishing house is fittingly located on Carlsplatz, right opposite the Hinkel bakery. The fact that ProWein, the leading trade fair for wine and spirits, takes place in Düsseldorf is also an advantage of the location. And last but not least, my Viennese colleagues like Düsseldorf because for them it is synonymous with elegant fashion and an exciting art scene.

What would you miss if you left again?

The brewery culture. I used to take a cab with my colleagues to the nearest brewery after ProWein, where you sometimes spend hours tasting wines. We simply needed a rustic nightcap, and a final Altbier served us well. You have to know that: I like the Rhineland mentality. You sit down at someone's table and strike up a conversation.

As editor-in-chief, you see a lot, but you also have to keep coming up with new ideas. What inspires you?

It inspires me to meet people who put their heart and soul into something - for example, when a chef goes in search of the very best ingredients. However, this doesn't necessarily have to take place in a culinary context, so it can just as easily be in art as in the kitchen. To put it more generally: I am inspired by people who have ideals and pursue them.

Where do you go when you want to switch off?

I love going to the Rhine. I was born in Duisburg and grew up on the Lower Rhine, for me the wide river radiates this pleasant calm. I love having a view over the water, in Hamburg I could walk from my office in St. Pauli to the harbor in two minutes. When I have time, we cycle to Kaiserswerth. If we have more time, we'll get in the car and drive to the North Sea - you can be there in two hours from here!