"The color of the Altbier is reminiscent of a copperplate engraving"
What a beer sommelier reveals about the maturing process and drinkability
For a long time, Anja Kober-Stegemann's professional life was characterized by top-down decisions, PowerPoint presentations and staff downsizing. The business graduate worked for international companies in Düsseldorf. Until Kober-Stegemann found her true passion: beer! Today she lives in Odenthal near Cologne and, as a beer sommelier, is a sought-after expert on all things beer. We spoke to her about the special features of Düsseldorf Altbier.
Ms. Kober-Stegemann, you are professionally involved in beer culture. What makes Altbier special?
Altbier is a top-fermented beer with an alcohol content of between 4.5 and 5.5 percent. It usually has a dark brown to reddish-brown color, reminiscent of a copper tint. It is a malty, hoppy beer with grassy and nutty aromas as flavor parameters.
What is special about the Düsseldorfer Alt?
What distinguishes Düsseldorfer Alt in particular is its high drinkability. As a top-fermented beer, it is brewed with yeast, which prefers it to be cozy and warm at 20 to 25 degrees. However, the beer is then left to undergo secondary fermentation and storage at relatively low temperatures. This is unusual for a top-fermented beer.
Why?
If it is only 13 to 18 degrees, the yeast works much more slowly and the maturing process takes longer. If you were to speed up the process, the result would also be a beer, but it would not be as full-bodied. Alt is therefore always full-bodied due to the brewing method, regardless of which home brewery it comes from.
"Care creates a good product."
How long does the beer mature?
The high drinkability is also due to the four to eight-week storage period. This allows the aromas to develop more pleasantly and the carbon dioxide remains in the beer for longer. As a result, the Alt has a nice sharpness and a low accumulation of fermentation by-products that you don't want in the beer. That's why you can simply drink a lot of it, which is often done in the old town (laughs).
And doesn't have a skull the next day?
Yes, you don't usually have a headache. This is also due to the careful and slow production in small quantities. Care creates a good product.
How do the different Altbiers differ?
If you drink Alt completely blind, even experienced drinkers will find it difficult to tell the difference - they have noticeable nuances of flavor, but it always remains a full-bodied beer. It should not be underestimated that beer lives through staging and stories. Big breweries do this through a lot of advertising. Düsseldorf's home breweries sell an attitude to life with their beer, which is made up of the ambience of the pubs, a lot of tradition, the attitude of the Köbes, the food and the mix of guests.
Why are there so many breweries in the old town?
In Düsseldorf, the old breweries are seen as an essential element of tradition and independence. The landlords and landladies live this theme, for which the guests are grateful. In addition, the Alt is known throughout Germany, although this beer style is not protected. There is also the flair of the home breweries, it is simply sociable.
"You get the next beer from the Köbes without being asked."
What is there only in Düsseldorf?
You get the next beer from the Köbes without being asked. It's a great sales strategy because you have to think about whether you want more beforehand. But then you're in conversation when the Köbes comes and - bang - you've got another fresh Alt.
What do you think of the new beer creations from the home breweries?
I think diversity is good. Nowadays, an expanded portfolio helps to pick up people who don't like old. At the same time, the brand essence must not be forgotten. As with many beer styles, Alt developed slowly, with many creative innovations in beer production being introduced in the 19th century. The first Alt was brewed in the oldest home brewery, Schumacher, in 1838. Many centuries before that, it was mainly the sour Keutebier that was brewed. This herbal beer was also a foodstuff, as it was the only drink at the time that was relatively pure and safe to drink due to the production process. It is not for nothing that the brewery's entrance key reads "Drink what is clear, eat what is cooked and say what is true."
What should you bear in mind when tasting beer?
A beer should always be drunk from the appropriate glass for the beer style. In the case of Alt, this is the Altbierstange with its cylindrical glass shape. The glass shows a copper-colored beer with a white head. The aroma is first perceived through the nose with malt, caramel but also herbal and grassy aromas. The attack, the mouthfeel, is usually soft and fresh. When swallowing, you can feel a malty sweetness and herbal bitterness in the finish.
Your insider tip for Old Town tasting?
Altbier can be drunk a little warmer than a Pilsner, for example, because it has a nice malty body.
You can find out more about Anja Kober-Stegemann on her website die-biersommeliere.de.
Cover picture: Anja Kober-Stegemann
If you're now in the mood for Altbier, then make sure you get a place on our "Craft Beer & Streetfood" tour!