Six sacred superlatives - churches in Düsseldorf

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From the dome made of copper plates to the Romanesque pillar basilica

Churches in Düsseldorf have some architectural surprises in store. But first things first: we can't compete with our beloved neighboring city of Cologne when it comes to sacred superlatives. Cologne Cathedral is unbeatable in this discipline. But there are also places of worship in Düsseldorf that were built before the city was founded and set standards in a variety of ways - be it with their avant-garde architecture, their sometimes surprisingly "profane" details or their testimony to the older and more recent history of the state capital. What you may not have known: Even away from the old town and city center, there are many reasons for a loud hallelujah.      

St. Rochus

With the "Kolbe Cross" by Düsseldorf artist Bert Gerresheim on the tower façade, the Rochuskirche in Düsseldorf-Pempelfort is directed against the forgetting of Nazi crimes. At the same time, it is an avant-garde testimony to sacred post-war architecture. At the corner of Prinz-Georgstrasse and Bagelstrasse, attention is inevitably drawn to Gerresheim's larger-than-life figure of Christ, which is more than that: the concentration camp number of the Franciscan priest and publicist Maximilian Kolbe is inscribed on the left forearm of the crucified man. The tower supporting the cross is the last remnant of the magnificent neo-Romanesque church that once stood here, which was badly destroyed in the Second World War. In its shadow is a surprise: a domed church built in 1955 from three thin parabolic shells and clad in copper panels, designed by Düsseldorf architect Paul Schneider-Esleben. It rises into the air like an egg, and the vernacular quickly came up with a fitting name: "Hallelujah Gasometer". Inside, the "Triumphant Christ" by Beuys teacher Ewald Mataré floats between twelve dome-supporting round pillars made of reinforced concrete.

Churches in Düsseldorf: The Rochuskirche in the foreground the domed building, in the background the old church tower.
St. Rochus: The domed building designed by Paul Schneider-Esleben can be seen in the foreground.
(Photo: Catholic parish of the Holy Trinity.)

Coptic bunker church of St. Mary

A literally unshakeable superlative. The Coptic Church of St. Mary, formerly St. Sacrament, in the Heerdt district is probably the most stable church in the world. Why? The property was originally church land, but was expropriated by the National Socialists and an air raid shelter was built on it. This was given the shape of a church as camouflage. Shortly after the end of the war, the Catholic priest Carl Klinkhammer combined the practical with the obvious and had the bunker converted into a "real" church. Storey ceilings were blown up, window openings were created, as well as a nine-meter-high altar wall and an attached bell tower. In 2015, the former Roman Catholic church was handed over to the Coptic Orthodox community - and remains a memorial to this day: original air raid shelters have been preserved in the basement.

Churches in Düsseldorf: The bunker church of St. Sacrament can be seen.
The Coptic Church of St. Mary, formerly St. Sacrament, is probably the most stable church among the churches in Düsseldorf. (Photo: Düsseldorf Tourismus , Photo: U. Otte)

St. Suitbertus

The entire Kaiserswerth district takes you back to bygone eras and also boasts a dream location on the Rhine. At the end of the 7th century, the missionary Suitbertus founded a monastery on what was then an island on the Rhine - the origin of what would later become Kaiserswerth. The church of St. Suitbertus probably took on its present form in the 11th century. The three-aisled pillar basilica not only houses the exquisitely decorated Suitbertus shrine, which is one of the most important medieval reliquaries in the Rhine-Meuse region. On the outer wall, a bronze relief by Bert Gerresheim also commemorates Friedrich Spee's fight against witchcraft. The idyllic Stiftsplatz, on which the church stands, is characterized by canon houses from the 18th century, while the "Romanesque House" from the 13th century is part of the peripheral development. But the journey through time doesn't end there: after visiting the church and strolling through the "profane" part of the historic center of Kaiserswerth, you should plan a detour to the ruins of the imperial palace on the Rhine.

Churches in Düsseldorf: A photo of St. Suitbertus Church in Kaiserswerth, in which the church can be seen in its entirety.
St. Suitbertus Church is located in Kaiserswerth, where a bronze relief by Bert Gerresheim commemorates Friedrich Spee's fight against the witch craze. (Photo: Lilly Urbaschek)

St. Matthew

When it comes to modern church architecture, Düsseldorf pulls another ace out of its sleeve: St. Matthew's, designed by Gottfried Böhm, also makes a real statement. The ensemble of buildings in Düsseldorf-Garath is more reminiscent of a nested sculpture than a Catholic parish center. And Böhm, who was the first German architect to be awarded the prestigious Pritzker Prize in 1986, was actually also a sculptor. St. Matthew's openly reveals references to art. The concrete blocks accentuated in red and blue are reminiscent of the paintings of Piet Mondrian. The concrete architecture was set on a castle-like brickwork with round corner towers, while sheet metal-clad elements complement the roofscape. Sounds crazy? It is. The interior is dominated by niches, galleries, boxes and openings - here too, the design language is radically modern. This is no coincidence, as the church was built between 1968 and 1970, together with the Garath district, which was designed on the drawing board.

Old St. Martin

Does the church have to breathe history for you? Then take a look in Düsseldorf-Bilk. Because Alt St. Martin is not only old, it is probably the oldest church in the state capital. The church was first mentioned in documents in 1173. Excavated buildings on its site even date back to the 8th century. When you enter the three-nave Romanesque arrow basilica, which today marks the corner of Martinstrasse and Bachstrasse, you can admire some frescoes from the 13th century. However, the people of Düsseldorf did not always show this historical treasure the appreciation it deserved: In the meantime, Alt St. Martin even lost its function as a parish church and was used as a barn by a textile company. After several extensive restorations, the Catholic parish of St. Boniface and the Protestant Luther Church parish now hold regular services here. In front of the small church you will find the original telescope from the nearby Bilk observatory, which was bombed out during the Second World War.

Saint Andrew the Apostle

International understanding with God's blessing: In Düsseldorf-Hassels, you can experience what can come together if you just want to. Even from the outside, the domed building on the A 46 is striking. The Greek Orthodox church was consecrated in 1989. Not a single spot on the walls and ceiling inside the building is free of painting. The abundance of icons and paintings is incredible! Four nuns from Crete spent years decorating the church with frescoes in the Byzantine tradition. It's worth taking a closer look, because the secret of a successful cultural crossover is revealed between the depictions of saints accentuated with lots of gold: at the top of the dome, Mary is enthroned above a city that is clearly recognizable as Düsseldorf. The castle tower, the Rhine, the theater, Benrath Castle - it's all there. Düsseldorf is probably the only German city whose landmarks are immortalized in an orthodox church.

Cover picture: Düsseldorf Tourismus

This article is funded by REACT-EU.

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